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"Stomach Pool" In Hong village, featured in the movie "Crouching Tiger Hidden Dragon"From 1120 in the Northern Song dynasty to the fall of the Qing dynasty in 1911, Huangshan was located in what was known as the Huizhou prefecture.

Devotees of the "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms", a Chinese historical fiction that describes the warring period from 220-280 A.D., will be thrilled to learn that a former residence of General Caocao is located in Huizhou, and that near to it, nine Cao family tombs have been discovered.

Notwithstanding this third century claim to fame, it was not until the middle of the Southern Song dynasty (1127 – 1279) that Huizhou took up a national position that it was to expand over the next 600 years. Under Emperor Gao Zong (r. 1127 – 1187), the Imperial court plumbed new levels of decadence. It reacted to the threat of a Jurchen invasion by relocating the Imperial capital to Hangzhou and initiating an extensive public works program. When the Imperial court arrived at its new capital in 1132, Huizhou merchants were on hand to supply bamboo, wood, lacquer and craftsmen for the construction of palaces, pavilions, villas and temples.

This construction boom provided Huizhou traders with capital to branch out into new industries and provinces. It transpired that with the strengthening of the southern economy, Huizhou's location between Zhejiang and Jiangsu provinces could be made to turn a profit. Soon Huizhou had become a key communications and trade route; local traders diversified into selling tea, grain, silk, cloth, paint, pottery, ink and paper. Commerce, frowned upon in Confucian ethics, became such a boon to this hitherto marginalized area that during Emperor Jiajing's reign (r. 1522 – 1567), some 70% of Huizhou's population was involved in it.

However, it was when Huizhou's merchants turned to the high margin salt and pawnbroking businesses that they were able to accelerate their expansion. They thus spread to all corners of China and even expanded into some Southeast Asian countries. Indeed, it was said that by the reign of Emperor Guangxi (1875 – 1909) all pawnbrokers were from Huizhou.

By investing in Huizhou's education they were able to field many candidates for Imperial Examinations and thus influence the Imperial bureaucracy. Between 960 – 1911 as many as 2,018 people from Huizhou achieved the highest level in Imperial government. In this way, these artful traders conspired to maintain such commercial advantages as their valuable salt monopolies.

Having gained fame and fortune, Huizhou merchants returned to their homeland to invest their gains in large-scale construction. To increase their personal prestige, to honor their ancestors and to strengthen their clan they built ancestral halls, mansions, memorial arches and bridges; all the architectural splendor that still decorate Huizhou's magnificent land.

Central, Hong KongThe Special Administrative Region (SAR) of Hong Kong has a population of around 7 million. The SAR is comprised of the island of Hong Kong, the Kowloon Peninsula, the New Territories, which abut China proper, and more than 200 islands, ranging from Lantau Island which is bigger than the island of Hong Kong, to small outcrops in the surrounding seas; the total area is a little over a thousand square kilometers, so it would fit neatly into the city of Los Angeles. Centuries ago, this small parcel of land in the tropics, on the distant margins of the great Chinese empire, was little more than a rocky outcrop. Were it not for the incursions of foreigners, Hong Kong today could be but one of many sleepy fishing villages on the edge of the South China Sea . Instead, first the Mongols and then especially the British, have ensured Hong Kong 's place in history. For the better part of two centuries it has served as the gateway to China , and to this day remains a looking glass through which westerners can catch a glimpse of China , and Chinese a glimpse of the west.

The first, thirteenth-century, irruption was short indeed. At that time the rump of the Southern Song dynasty court had fled south, away from the advancing Mongol armies. Initially they decamped to Silvermine Bay , a part of the old fishing village of Mui Wo , on Lantau Island , before making the Kowloon Peninsula their base. The Southern Song was soon defeated by the Mongols, and Hong Kong 's first brush with empire-wide politics was forgotten. History, however, was not finished with the settlement. In the early nineteenth-century, around the time of the first Opium War, Hong Kong appeared in a substantial way on the historical horizon. The protagonist was Charles Elliot, the British Superintendent of Trade. In response to British merchants being expelled from Macao , Elliot made the island of Hong Kong their base. The Opium War broke out, the Chinese side soon sued for peace and the island was ceded, in perpetuity to the British according to the terms of the Treaty of Nanking in 1842. The Second Opium War also ended in Chinese defeat, and this time the lower end of the Kowloon Peninsula became British territory. Finally, in 1898, the adjacent lands of the New Territories were leased by Britain for 99 years.

Hong Kong muddled along, sometimes serving as a base for revolutionaries such as Sun Yat-sen. Ironically it was the Communist victory on the mainland in 1949 and UN-backed trade embargo that gave Hong Kong the spur it needed to develop as a capitalist haven with a strong manufacturing base specializing initially in textiles. But you'll be hard pressed to find all those manufacturing sweat shops these days – manufacturing now accounts for less than 5% of Hong Kong 's GDP, while the service industry accounts for more than 85%. The entrepreneurial spirit in Hong Kong remains a common thread stringing together the nineteenth-century small business ventures to the early manufacturing enterprises to the present-day service industries. Hong Kong 's foremost Western commentator, Jan Morris described it thus:

"They are opportunists of genius. When communal lavatories were first installed in Hong Kong, Chinese entrepreneurs took to sitting on them for so long that people were obliged to bribe them to come off. When during the plague of 1900 the Government offered two cents for every dead rat delivered to the authorities, there was a brisk flow of imported rodents from the mainland. Marine Department employees posted to the signal station on the otherwise uninhabited Green Island took to breeding goats as a sideline. "(1)

The Communist victory also saw many cultural figures arrive in Hong Kong and they augmented the natural cultural growth that accompanied the economic rise of the colony. Perhaps it is the Hong Kong film industry that is best known in the West and Jackie Chan is now a household name; but other figures not known outside Chinese cultural circles also made the move south, including everyone from martial arts masters to calligraphers. This ensured that Hong Kong developed an organic cultural world together with the cosmopolitan profile left by its colonial past. While 95% of the population is listed as being of Chinese descent, one in fourteen people holds a foreign passport. This latter fact is testament to the international character of much of the population, as well as to the flurry of uncertainty that gripped the population before the handover back to mainland Chinese control, when many citizens felt safer having an alternative in case the new regime turned sour.

These days Hong Kong is no longer the shopping paradise it once was – though some electronics remain good buys. An interesting spectacle if you're browsing is to watch the high end sales. Many of the shoppers for brand-name products are the nouveau riche from mainland China – tired of the perpetual concerns over authenticity in China they believe that purchases in Hong Kong are much less likely to be fake. Funnily enough, even the quality of Hong Kong 's fakes is acknowledged, and street sellers may try to convince you by advertising 'genuine copies'. If you want to spend time on local favourites, then head for the Racetrack at Happy Valley , surrounded by high-rise buildings, and enjoy the night races in the comfort of the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

(1).Jan Morris, Hong Kong: Epilogue to an Empire (London: Penguin, 1997), p.180.

West LakeThe Western view:

"Green mountains surround on all sides the still waters of the lake. Pavilions and towers in hues of gold and azure rise here and there. One would say a landscape composed by a painter. Only towards the east, where there are no hills, does the land open out, and there sparkle, like fishes' scales, the bright coloured tiles of a thousand roofs." 
(Jacques Gernet, Daily life in China on the Eve of the Mongol Invasion)

The Eastern view:

"In heaven there is Paradise, On earth there are Suzhou and Hangzhou." (popular saying)

Hangzhou's inordinate beauty has been an inspiration to artists for centuries – Lin Hejiang, a tenth century poet is famous for having lived as a recluse on Solitary island for twenty years. And indeed, two more of China's most influential poets, Bai Juyi and Su Dongpo, served as governors here at that time.

During the Qing dynasty (1644-1911) the city became known as a popular tourist destination, much frequented by such notables as the Emperor Kangxi and Emperor Qianlong, who built a palace and important library here. Similarly, during the late twentieth century, Mao Ze Dong was smitten by its charm. He snatched moments from his hectic political life to write "Ode to the Mume Blossom", which by its very title recalls Lin Heijiang's "To the Mume Blossom", written a thousand years earlier.

Hangzhou rose to prominence as the capital of the Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279). Forced to flee before the invading Jurched, the Imperial court under the rule of the pusillanimous Emperor Gaozong (1107-1187) moved its capital southwards from Kaifeng to Hangzhou. Under the patronage of this court, Hangzhou's arts and commerce received unprecedented impetus, transforming it, in Marco Polo's words into, "a city of heaven…the finest and most splendid city in the world."

Chinese products, such as silk and ceramics, were traded for wood, pearls and handicrafts from Japan; ginseng and medicinal herbs from Korea; and spices, ivory and jewels from Southeast Asia and the Middle East. As a result, by the end of the thirteenth century, the wealthy population had swelled from half a million to nearly two million. The city became known for its sybaritic life: one resident had the floor of his house covered with tiles inlaid with silver; pets were dyed pink with balsam leaves and Hangzhou's West Lake became the focus of a thirteenth century pleasure-ground with splendid boats, restaurants and entertainers.

Seven hundred years later, Hangzhou's West Lake continues to draw foreign tourists and local Chinese to its beautiful shores.

The Nan mountains, dividing the Yangzi river basin to the north from the Xi river valley to the south, have always protected Guangxi province from unwelcome intruders. They not only shelter this tropical region from the cruelly bitter winds of the Gobi, throughout its history they’ve also shielded it from the encroachments of the Imperialist Han Empire.

From their first invasion here in the 3rd century BC until the 12th century AD, the Han Chinese considered Guangxi an exotic region inhabited by barbaric and unruly aboriginal tribes. From the Yuan dynasty (1271) onwards Imperial control was only successfully maintained by the use of force. Even today, this region, which hosts 12 different ethnic minorities, boasts a fair measure of independence. It is officially known as Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region – its largest ethnic minority is comprised of Zhuang people.

Guilin – Capital of Guangxi Province

The construction of the Ling Canal in the 3rd century B.C.E. made it possible for small craft to pass from the Yangzi river to the southward Xi river. Guilin, named after the scent of the local sweet osmanthus trees, was established in the 1st century B.C.E. on the west bank of the Kuei River, which linked the Ling Canal to the Xi River. It grew into an important trading post on the route between central China and the southern ports of Guangdong (Canton), so that under the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) a garrison was set up here. During this period, a policy of “civilizing” military colonization promoted agricultural production in Guilin’s surrounding fertile valleys.

From this time until 1949, Guilin was primarily a handicraft and agricultural center. Under Communist rule however, when industry was promoted in inland areas, factories were built here for the manufacture of chemicals, engineering, paper and agricultural equipment. Nowadays, high transport costs are driving such industries to locations on China’s more accessible Eastern coast. Forced to adapt to the regulation of market forces, Guilin is encouraging tourism and food processing in their stead.

Yangshuo

Situated 65 kilometers (40 miles) east of Guilin, Yangshuo is an ancient town that was declared a county seat during the Jin dynasty some 1,500 years ago. Nestling amidst spectacular limestone spires and towers, it has long been recognized as a wonderful retreat to enjoy Guangxi’s karst scenery. For as many generations, it has also been known for its abundant produce – particularly its oranges, tangerines, pomelos (a relative of the grapefruit), chestnuts and persimmons.

Image of Dunhuang and Silk Road of ChinaThrough China's long history three geographic areas have been vital to her overall defense. The first is the Tarim Basin, marked on many Western maps as the western half of the Gobi Desert. The second is the marshy grasslands of the Ordos, located around the great loop of the Yellow River, now in Inner Mongolia. The third area is the Orkhon river valley northwest of the Ordos in Outer Mongolia. Whoever controlled any of these three areas had a strong base from which to threaten China. The history of Dunhuang is rooted in China's attempts to defend her western border against threats from the Tarim basin.

From as early as the seventh century B.C.E., Chinese kingdoms built walls along their northern frontiers to defend themselves against the forays of savage Hun (Xiongnu) nomadic tribes. In 120 B.C.E., during the reign of Emperor Wu (147-87 B.C.E.) of the Western Han dynasty, the most comprehensive Great Wall project to date was initiated, with up to four systems of fortification spanning the breadth of China from Dunhuang in the west to the Korean peninsula in the east. Part of this Great Wall was constructed across the mouth of the Hexi Corridor from Dunhuang's Yumenguan (Jade Gate Pass) in the west to Jiayuguan, 180 miles to the east. Three years later in 117 B.C.E., Dunhuang was appointed a prefecture. For the next millennium, it remained one of China's most important command posts with heavy concentrations of military and civilian personnel.

Since the Hexi Corridor, a desert plain enclosed by two sets of mountains, links the eastern edge of the Tarim basin to China's heartland, Dunhuang's military significance as China's first line of defense from a western attack is clear. Indeed, "Dunhuang" itself means "Blazing Beacon" and refers to a series of beacons – 70 of which remain to this day – used to communicate news of enemy movements to military authorities in the east.

With the rise of the Silk Road and its resultant commerce in trade and ideas, Dunhuang's role and character altered. Though its importance as a garrison remained, it now doubled as a trading post and cultural center. Many cultural relics testify to its wealth and power as a trading area. For example, paper dating back to 94 B.C.E., 170 years before it was previously thought to have been invented, has recently been found here. There can be no greater testament to its cultural significance than the nearby Mogao Caves , Yulin Caves and the Western Thousand Buddha Caves.

From its inception to the end of the Tang dynasty (618-907 C.E.), Dunhuang remained an important center in China's political, economic and military life. However, when China's capital moved eastwards from Xi'an – out of the threatening purview of the Tarim basin – as commerce transferred from land to sea routes, so did Dunhuang gradually lose its national significance.

Foribidden CityChengdu , in western China , is the capital of Sichuan Province (former spellings included Szechwan and Szechuan ). The province is known throughout China and the world, for its spicy food, pandas, tea drinking habits, and hot pot. The basin in which Chengdu sits is surrounded by a ring of mountains that formed a natural obstacle to traders and attackers for centuries. For many years the most accessible route into the Sichuan Basin was to brave the perilous shoals of the Yangzi River . Even during the Tang dynasty it was still such a hazardous journey that one of the most famous of Chinese poems from that period begins: "The road to Shu is hard" – Shu being the name of an old kingdom whose capital was Chengdu. This relative isolation from the rest of the Chinese world has meant that at times the Sichuanese have had independent kingdoms, and sometimes their cultural affiliations have been stronger with their neighbours outside the borders of the Chinese world than with the Chinese world itself. To this day the rest of China recognises the special characteristics of the region, and the Sichuanese people are regarded as relaxed and friendly.

Chengdu has had a poetic history, known sometimes as the ' Brocade City ' for an official who was in charge of that industry in the city, and also as ' Hibiscus City '. It is famous in the Chinese imagination for serving as the capital of one of the three states that made up the Three Kingdoms Period (222-263), and thus it features strongly in the most famous Chinese political drama ever told, the Romance of the Three Kingdoms . The allure of Chengdu was such that the two most famous Chinese poets both called it home for some time. The province was also the birthplace for the invention of paper money, and in recent years, reprising its independent character, it was the last major city in China to hold out against the Communists.

Once characterized by wooden buildings and teahouses, it has witnessed the same vicissitudes that nearly every other major city in China has gone through in the past fifty years: first the periodic communist leveling of much of the old architecture, and what wasn't removed under the guise of Marxism-Leninism-Mao Zedong Thought has been done away with in the process of rebuilding the entire country that began in the 1980s. Nonetheless, cultural habits do not change overnight, and despite there being another ten million people in the vicinity the city feels much more relaxed than does Beijing or Shanghai – there are still tea houses, such as those in the People's Park, where you can pull up a chair and chat the afternoon away, before heading off to dinner at one of the many restaurants that specialize in hotpot or marvelous fresh Sichuanese cuisine.

Image of Forbidden CityBeijing or Northern Capital was made capital of the world's largest ever, land-based empire by the Mongol conqueror, Kublai Khan, in 1271. What was then the quiet market town of Yanjing was promptly remodelled into a glorious city befitting the attention and tributes of the world.

After the Mongols were overthrown in the coup of 1368, however, the first Ming Emperor Hongwu (r. 1368-1398) relocated the capital elsewhere. His descendant, unnerved by the continuing threat of the Mongols to the North, returned here half a century later. Yong Le (r. 1402-1424), the third Ming emperor, cleared away the Mongols' palaces and redesigned the capital city to reflect the greater glory of the new, ethnically Han Chinese dynasty. It was during this reign that the Forbidden City took its current form. In effect Beijing, as it was now named, was divided by perimeter walls into two cities – a rectangular Forbidden City to the North adjoining an oblong Imperial one to the South.

When the Manchus invaded China to establish the Qing dynasty (1644-1910), they kept much of Beijing's architecture unchanged. Indeed, the Manchus were so thoroughly sinicized that they came to embody the Ming dynasty's most conservative values. Their most notable additions to Beijing's architecture are the Imperial summer palaces to the city's north.

Beijing Today

Some of the architecture that you see today dates to the first decades of communist rule. In many cases Soviet designs, such as you'll find all over Eastern Europe, were used to provide inexpensive structures for the incipient and penniless state. Since the mid-80s though, Beijing has seen a differently motivated construction boom. Taiwanese, Singaporean and Hong Kong business people are investing more and more money into the city's burgeoning skyline. Like Jack and his Beanstalk, Beijingers wake up every morning to see that their city has grown even taller, as if by magic.

It may surprise you to see that so many Western shops, brands and products have preceded you here. For the most part, Chinese people do not look like they can afford a Rolex, a Ferarri or a Burberry. Yet somebody's buying them! Since it's not in the interest of affluent mainland Chinese to draw attention to themselves, it's up to you to go out and seek the new China.

 

 

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China News


Contents
Travel Snippets
Hotel/Restaurant Update For Hong Kong, Shanghai & Beijing
Imperial Tours News Blast
Odds N Ends – Interview With Last Emperor's Brother
Discovery – Chinese Museology's Brave New World
 
Dear Guy, 

In this issue you will learn: 

  • What Pu Ren, the Last Emperor's younger brother, thinks of today's China in our one-on-one interview.
  • The latest scoop on the new Beijing – Tibet railway line.
  • Read and save expert reviews of the latest hotels and restaurants in Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai
  • How Xi'an's state-of-the-art extension at the takes ChinesYangling Mausoleume museology to the top of the class
  • Helicopter tours of the Great Wall of China take off
  • An archeological institute opens its secret store of antiquities for inspection

Before all this, we at Imperial Tours raise our glasses to Karin Hansen of Frosch Travel, Deerfield. In 2004, she was runner-up, but in 2005, Karin won Imperial Tours' Travel Agent of the Year award, bringing in more revenue than any other agent. We give her cudos and send her a copy of Fuchsia Dunlop's "Sichuanese Cookery".

 

Virtuoso's China Onsite 

Traveling China…in style 

Phone us at 888 888 1970 

Or come visit our website!

Image of Eurocopter 120

 

Travel Snippets

Trains

Beijing – Lhasa

With the much hooted opening on July 1st of the Beijing – Lhasa railway line, the highest in the world, train travel will bring the romance of long distance rail journeys to China.

Travel agents should note that only passenger service has started. The sightseeing train is not yet in operation. The stories soon to be in circulation about the nature of services currently available on the route only refer to the passenger service and are not a meaningful indicator of the future luxury sightseeing train.

Based on our current information, we estimate that the sightseeing service will begin operation in summer 2007. The sightseeing train's luxury carriages are rumored to have only 4 berths per carriage, a ratio that truly validates its claim to the highest luxury. The hotel operator which has been invited to service the luxury carriages has an excellent reputation and will bring cachet to the project. Therefore, we hope there will be a high quality product to sell next summer to rail enthusiasts who like to travel in style.

In our November broadcast, we touched upon the logistical and capacity problems that Lhasa will have in accommodating an influx of visitors. To help reduce the strain, various luxury hotel groups are moving in to top-up luxury accommodation. These include Banyan Tree, Park Hyatt, Hotel Of Modern Art, Starwood and others. It seems, however, that the Tibetan religious authorities are reluctant to expand the areas of the Potala Palace that are to be opened to the public, and are not as yet making any initiatives to help absorb the 4,000 or so visitors that are projected to arrive in Lhasa on a daily basis. One pressure valve to ease Lhasa's burden is already being worked on by the Rail Authorities. They have started to extend the railway line from Lhasa west to Shigatse, the home of the Panchen Lama, and east to Dali, a scenic area. (Those interested in Tibetan affairs will note that Shigatse in western Tibet is also home to Tibet's historic gold mines and boasts natural reserves of many valuable minerals, including uranium and chromium.)

Hangzhou Maglev Rail Project Making Tracks

In passing, we should mention that a high speed rail link has been approved for the Beijing to Shanghai route. In a few years this 13 hour journey will be reduced to 5 hours with trains traveling at up to 220 m/h or 350 km/h!

A sexier and more glamorous rail project that is more likely to impact the luxury travel industry is the construction of a 110 mile Maglev (magnetic levitation) line from Shanghai to Hangzhou. This is mooted to be finished by 2010 at a cost of $4.3 billion and will reduce the 2 hour journey to less than half an hour. If the recently built Shanghai airport Maglev is anything to go by, the new train line traveling at speeds up to 260 m/h will become a tourist site in itself. (For Chinese people, because Emperor Qianlong so loved it, Hangzhou's West Lake is China's most celebrated tourist site. It is offered as part of our Imperial Tour.)

Planes

Helicopter Tours of the Great Wall

Imperial Tours introduces helicopter tours of the Great Wall. Aerial visits can be made to Badaling, Mutianyu or Jinshanling/Simatai sections of the Great Wall. (The helicopter is unable to land at these destinations.) There are two models of helicopter available – one is the European-manufactured Eurocopter 120 and the other is the American-manufactured Bell 206. These helicopters carry 4 or 5 passengers, respectively. The operator began operation in 2000 and has passed its yearly Chinese safety inspections. It has never had any reported incidents and has received yearly commendations from the Aviation Administration Bureau, a subdivision of the CAAC, for good safety performance.

China Eastern Airlines, one of the biggest airlines in China, is soon to offer international service to Xi'an, home of the Terracotta Warriors and the Yangling Mausoleum, from eight international destinations: Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Bangkok, Delhi, London, Paris, Vancouver and Los Angeles.

In April, American Airlines started direct flights from Chicago to Shanghai.

Other News

Xi'an Archaeological Institute Opens Its Store Room

Imperial Tours can now provide access to the private store room at the Xi'an Archaeological Institute. Under the guidance of an expert and having donned gloves, guests can handle invaluable relics, some of them nearly 3,000 years old. Relics include a bronze urn from the Zhou period, gold ingots from the Western Han dynasty, celadon porcelain from the Tang dynasty and many other items. For people interested in art history, this is the experience of a lifetime.

You haven't yet been on the Imperial Tours' Fam?

According to the U.S. Office of Travel & Tourism Industries, China is the sixth most popular destination visited by Americans. Annual growth in U.S. departures to Asia through August 2005 was up 10%, outstripping growth rates for Europe (3%) and the Caribbean (just 2%). (There are one or two places left on our November 2006 FAM. Book your spot now and learn about China first hand.)

Saks In The City

Saks Fifth Avenue is planning to open a 300,00 square foot luxury department store in Shanghai in 2008. Triple the size of the existing Fifth Avenue location, the China store will also contain restaurants, bars and possibly a nightclub.

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Image of Raffles Hotel, Beijing

 

Hotel/Restaurant Update For Hong Kong, Shanghai & Beijing

Restaurants

Hong Kong

Spoon – The pressure on an Alain Ducasse restaurant to perform is intense. We had heard great things about Spoon and so booked ourselves into a window table to help celebrate a friend's wedding. The setting from inside the Intercontinental Hotel on the harbor shoreline was phenomenal, the silver spoons suspended from the ceiling a piquant decorative theme. Our expectations by now were about as high as the Bank of China building across the waterway. It is great credit to Alain Ducasse that his restaurants are able to consistently cater to these levels of expectation. Although we were not blown away by the food, the service was flawless and we enjoyed the gastronomic experience of the tasting menu. While the artichoke custard with black truffle shavings at the outset of the meal was disappointing, the layered, jellied limoncello under a raspberry mousse at its conclusion was as unexpected as it was delicious. The quality of the ingredients of our meal from the lobster to the scallops to the venison and sea bass was high. We are not raving about it, but we will recommend it.

The Kee Club was everything Spoon was not. It was a personalized experience and the food WOW-ed us. The restaurant setting, Venetian in inspiration, is ornate but informal nonetheless. We booked via the concierge at the Mandarin Landmark Hotel, and as a result the maitre d' and part-owner greeted us, introduced his menu and tailored its dishes for our order. Cudos to both. The dishes prepared by Chef Bonelli, whose resume includes time at four Michelin three-star restaurants, was marvelous. We liked the look of the soups and enjoyed equally the lobster bisque, the camembert soup and the clam soup. The lobster tagliatelli were delicious as was the veal with black truffles. While the Caesar's salad was somewhat ordinary, the chocolate souffle was excellent. To be highly recommended.

Hutong – Perched on the top two floors of Kowloon-side on 1 Peking Road, Hutong owns commanding views of Hong Kong's emblematic harbor. Named after the alleyways of Beijing, the restaurant echoes the Beijing Grand Hyatt's Made In China in fusing northern Chinese food with other culinary traditions. Although it is not at the same level as its Beijing inspiration, it is nonetheless a solid lunch restaurant.

Caprice – The French restaurant at the newly opened Four Seasons, Hong Kong boasts Michelin 3 star rated chef, Thierry Vincent, from the George V Hotel, Paris. We were unable to devote an evening dinner to the restaurant, only a lunch. Our impression echoes the experience of Spoon, namely fantastic service, wonderful view and a high standard. The food was of a high standard, but not surprisingly good.

China Club – a review of Hong Kong's better restaurants would be incomplete without inclusion of the China Club. This has previously been included in our Hong Kong restaurant reviews and so we remind readers of its wonderful contemporary art collection and consistently good Chinese food.

In future trips to Hong Kong, we will be sampling Isola (Italian with a fantastic ambiance), Lumiere (South American) and Cuisine Cuisine (Cantonese but in somewhat mundane surroundings).

Shanghai

Jade on 36 – Atop the Shangri-la's new hotel wing struts a bold and challenging new restaurant. The beautifully crafted interiors by Adam D. Tihany combine disparate, somewhat shocking elements in stylish harmony. Paul Pairet's "cuisine de voyage" is an eclectic meta-cuisine to match. Fusing the world's cooking traditions into global union with the same chutzpah that he pairs seemingly incompatible ingredients such as tomato sauce and ice cream, Monsieur Pairet stands outside normal culinary traditions. He is as likely to shock you with sardine mousse packed into a tin can as he is with foie gras balanced on a teetering chop stick. Definitely bold, unquestionably fun, but did the preparation of delicious food get lost in the razzmatazz?

South Beauty, Yanan Lu, Shanghai – Sichuanese restaurant chain, South Beauty, takes its restaurants up a notch by locating their latest offering within a colonial mansion. With some clever ordering, it is possible to provide chilli-fearing visitors with a meal that is not too spicy. However, the service is wanting and so despite its fine surroundings, this eatery is not a reliable partner for the luxury visitor.

Beijing

The opening of the new Philippe Starck-designed South Beauty Sichuanese restaurant in Beijing continues to be imminent.

Ja-an is the French restaurant in the recently-opened Raffles Hotel, reviewed below. We will review this restaurant in the next edition of our newsletter.

Hotel News

Hong Kong

We start with the new entrants to the scene:

Landmark Mandarin Hotel – A boutique hotel catering to the hip, return visitor to Hong Kong. The glamorous bar, excellent spa, well-respected restaurant, fine service and designer bedrooms (starting at 450 square feet) make for a sizzling cocktail right in the heart of Hong Kong's center. However, the lack of harbor view bedrooms makes it a tough sell for first-time visitors to Hong Kong. Also, those guests – typically Ritz Carlton or Four Seasons customers – who crave familiarity and simple luxury – will be somewhat non-plussed by the unconventional bathrooms, double electric curtains and state-of-the-art media systems. (This begs the question – when is more too much?)

Four Seasons Hotel – With its deluxe rooms at 500 square feet, this is a powerful new entrant to Hong Kong's luxury market, in some ways eclipsing the current market leader, the Peninsula Hotel. It boasts elegant, spacious bedrooms with harbor views and a breathtaking club lounge. Its location is a ten minute walk east of the traditional center of Hong Kong. However, the neighboring IFC Tower, the hottest property in Hong Kong right now, pulls the commercial center towards it. With all the minimum requirements for success in the Hong Kong market, such as flat-screen tv sets, a fantastic spa and a world-class restaurant, the brand new Four Seasons Hotel only comes second to the Peninsula Hotel in terms of the heritage of the latter property.

Peninsula Hotel – By merit of its heritage (and with the Mandarin Hotel closed for renovation), the Kadoorie-owned Peninsula Hotel, is currently the primus inter pares of Hong Kong's luxury hotels. First-time visitors to Hong Kong will appreciate the heritage of this fine, colonial property. Even though it is no longer right on the harbor front, the recently renovated 440 square foot, harbor view bedrooms of the new wing boast excellent harbor views, and with the addition of the new spa, flat screen tv's and the continuing pull of Felix, the popular Philippe Starck designed restaurant, this historic property is up to date in terms of facilities. However, a victim of its own fame, the exclusivity of the hotel ambiance is being mortgaged to its popularity amongst tourists.

Intercontinental Hotel – The spectacular harbor views and fine dining facilities attract many cruise and incentive visitors to the Intercontinental. After its last renovation, Imperial Tours extolled this property's 450 square foot Deluxe rooms and its 750 square foot Executive Suites, and urged travel agents to consider its excellent value ahead of the Peninsula Hotel. However, the years have not been kind and the fixtures have lost their contemporary edge. The lobby atmosphere is touristy and the hotel has lost its luster.

Grand Hyatt Hotel – Although its new spa is noteworthy, many years have passed since this property opened. As the sheen of the new has been effaced by the passing of time, so has the Grand Hyatt focused more and more on servicing the needs of the adjacent Convention Center. Though it might have once been amongst the top tier of luxury hotels in Hong Kong, this property is now looking tired.

Shanghai

Regent Hotel – Located on the western side of Shanghai close to Hongqiao airport, the recently opened Regent Shanghai is a value proposition for the mid-level, five star corporate market. The 511 bedroom hotel, managed by Carlson Hotels, is housed within a stunning, dark-blue glass, jagged-edged, polygonal skyscraper. The central, sparse first floor lobby leads up a central stairwell to circular public areas, including restaurants, on the second and third floors. The bedrooms and corridors are characterless however, and feel like they were commissioned by someone more interested in property plays than in interior design. This structure is a wondrous addition to Shanghai's skyline, but Imperial Tours would only use this property with a budget constrained incentive group.

Beijing

Raffles Hotel – After years of lobbying, the Singapore-based Raffles hotel group has been engaged to manage "the middle building" of the Beijing Hotel. In 1917 this was the "Grand Hotel de Pekin" comprising 105 luxury suites, and host to such luminaries as writer George Bernard Shaw and Field Marshal Foch. On the one hand, Raffles have been fortunate to get their hands on the only heritage hotel building in the city. On the other hand, having the city government, in the form of Beijing Tourism Group, as the owner is not an easy undertaking. The latter two sentences encompass our initial view of the recently soft-opened property. On the one hand, the Landmark Rooms and Suites do have a marvelously historical feel. On the other, there are simple infrastructural faults (lack of sound-proofed windows, need for better plumbing, noisy air conditioning) that require some additional investment if this property is to prosper in the increasingly competitive Beijing luxury hotel market.

And a bit of hotel gossip

In a joint venture with Beijing Tourism Group (already mentioned above), a somewhat secretive luxury hotel operator is transforming the former kitchens at the Summer Palace in Beijing into a set of individual luxury villas and rooms. Ground was broken about a year ago and this luxury project is expected to begin operation in 2007.

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Image of Maria Shriver at the China Club at Imperial Tours' Sponsored Lunch

 

Imperial Tours News Blast

"Hotel arrangements were excellent, and who can complain about the restaurants and the meals we were served. First row seating to see the acrobats! Special access here and there. The list goes on. Imperial Tours is the paradigm for group tours."
WR, New York, New York, June 02, 2006

Tour News

Places remain on our August, September and the second of our October group departures. (The first October departure is now sold out.) Click here for details.

Also, as mentioned above, one or two places remain on our November 2006 Fam, and many more places remain on our March 2007 Fam. Contact Margot for details.

Company Events

Imperial Tours hosted a lunch for Maria Shriver during her recent visit to China with Governor Schwarzenegger, and was fortunate to have local Chinese business tycoons Zhang Xin and Ting Liu in attendance.

Company News

This year has seen buds of growth for Imperial Tours in various new directions. Four new China Hosts joined our team. Biographies of the richly talented Moira Ramudo, Nic Linton, Andrew Papas and Ian Rowen can be found by clicking here.

Priscilla Tan, who has been a China Host for several years, steps into the office to become a Tour Manager operating a portion of our tours.

Meanwhile, Mr. Fu Yang, with 17 years of Chinese travel industry experience and two post-graduate degrees from universities in Japan and the UK, bolsters our Beijing back office, and Ms. Cai Ying joins our Finance Department.

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Image of Pu Ren, the younger brother of Pu Yi, the last Emperor of China

 

Odds N Ends – Interview With Last Emperor's Brother

On June 28, I was fortunate to meet Pu Ren, the younger brother of Pu Yi, the last Emperor of China. Pu Ren is a startlingly placid individual. He has been through so much, three revolutions in all, each of which turned his world upside down, yet he views the world with equanimity. The transcript below is a record of my conversation with him.

Since Pu Ren is largely deaf, I wrote down my questions to him and he spoke his replies.

Q: Do you like Americans?
A: Yes, I like Americans. I have been to Hawaii. It was beautiful.

Q: Anywhere else in the U.S.?
A: In the 1980's, I represented a school at a conference in America.

Q: What do you think of the recent reforms and what do you think of China today?
A: Life in China is improving. I have a pension from the government and my sons & daughters have their own pensions. One of my sons is a government official, and so I am satisfied with my recent life.

Q: What was the happiest period of your life?
A: Now is a good time.

Q: Do you think the Japanese tricked Pu Yi, the last Emperor?
A: Yes, I think so. Pu Yi wanted to regain his dynastic power and so he needed the support of the Japanese but he lost control of the situation. He sent some of his family relatives to Japan to study in order to prepare to help him manage his dynasty in the future.

Q: Did you try to dissuade Pu Yi from making an alliance with the Japanese?
A: With my father, we went to visit my brother at Tianjin. After fleeing from Beijing, Pu Yi took residence in Tianjin, a port city east of Beijing. My father tried to convince Pu Yi not to continue his contacts with the Japanese, but Pu Yi in his turn tried to convince my father to go to the Northeast of China with him. They could not agree on this. However, the Japanese would not let my father return to Beijing. They kept him in Tianjin and tried to force him to accompany Pu Yi to establish Manchukuo in Northeastern China. My father did not want to do this. He stopped eating so as to fall ill. When he became very ill he asked the Japanese to let him return to Beijing to see a doctor. While they were considering this, I secretly supplied my father with biscuits so that my father could keep his strength up.

Q: The liberation of China (1949 Communist revolution) must have been a very difficult time for you?
A: This was not a very difficult for me personally, because I was assigned a job as a school teacher and principal of a school. My family had no option but to sell our big palace to the government and we received some money. After the Republic was declared in 1911, the Emperor received next to no money from the state, and so we received no income from the Emperor. We lived by selling our property.

Q: Did you suffer during the Cultural Revolution?
A: Not me personally. I was able to continue working, and premier Zhou Enlai (Foreign Minister) signed a document to protect me and my two brothers. The Red Guard came to my home and confiscated my property but this was not so bad.

Q: Have you seen the Bertolucci movie, "The Last Emperor"?
A: No, I don't know what are you talking about.

Pu Ren's Daughter intervenes: The depiction of some of our family in the movie is so inaccurate and upsetting that we have never shown this movie to my father. Other members of the family are considering a lawsuit against the movie.

Q: Have you read Pu Yi's book, "From Emperor to Citizen"? What did you think of it?
A: Yes, I did. It was his own personal experience and written by him so it's true.

Q: Have you thought of writing a book?
A: I've never thought of it. But I do sometimes write articles.

Q: You seem such a calm and happy person. Are you a Buddhist?
A: No, I'm not religious.

Q: What do you like to do in your spare time?
A: Gardening and walking. Because Im so deaf, I read a lot. I walk a lot every day.

Q: How many children do you have? What do they do?
A: I have 5 children, 3 sons and 2 daughters. One son is the governor of Chongwen district, one son is a professor at the university, another daughter is a teacher at a high school.

Q: Did you ever meet Song Qing Ling? (Song Qing Ling is the middle daughter of Charlie Song. She was married to Sun Yatsen, the founder of the Republic in 1911, and was Vice-President of China for many years.)
A: Yes, I did meet her several times in the 1950's and 60's, because she lived in the Western Garden of my family's former palace, not far from the place I lived after the 1949 communist revolution. So, I met her several times.

Q:Did you ever study foreign languages?
A: Yes, when I was young I studied English but I have not had many opportunities to use it so have forgotten it.

Our interview finished with Pu Ren showing me around his rock garden and his plants.

Imperial Tours is pleased to be able to offer to a limited number of guests the opportunity to meet with Pu Ren, younger brother of Pu Yi, the last Emperor of China.

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Image of Figurines At Yangling

 

Discovery – Chinese Museology's Brave New World

Yangling Mausoeum – A Wonderful Step Into The Future of Chinese Archeology

Unfortunately, modern Chinese art conservation is replete with tragic failures. Several times, archaeologists have excavated sites of major importance and have unearthed objects of unparalleled value to discover that the corrosive atmosphere of modern times quickly fades the color or decomposes the form of the unearthed antiquities. Ancient textiles have disintegrated before conservationists' eyes. A perfectly preserved peach was eviscerated by the air in seconds. Ancient texts painted onto bamboo batons were lost to history in minutes as the bamboo split and crumbled into dust. Most famously, the Terracotta Warriors, when they were first dug up, were all painted.

Xi'an, home to eleven dynasties and thousands of years of art history, has slowed down its archeological digs as it waits for scientists to learn to deal with this issue.

In 1999, after receiving help from German scientists, the Terracotta Warriors Museum announced a breakthrough. It claimed that a newly developed chemical would treat the problem. This chemical was immediately painted onto newly excavated Terracotta Warriors, and from 2002 was also used at the archaeological excavations at Yangling. Yangling is the mausoleum of the Han dynasty Emperor Jing Di, the fourth Emperor of the Han dynasty who reigned from 188 BCE to 141 BCE. The Yangling Mausoleum at this time was excavating a great number of fabulous tomb figurines. These are smaller in size than the world-famous Terracotta Warriors of Emperor Qin's Mausoleum but they have far greater variety.

As time passed, regular visitors to the Terracotta Warriors Museum and Yangling Mausoleum saw the colors slowly fade from the statues, i.e. the chemical didn't work. When the experiment was eventually declared a failure, the opened excavation pits at Yangling were quickly covered up again. (Imperial Tours was already taking its guests to Yangling by this time.)

Recently, in March 2006, Yangling Museum opened its new exhibition hall and displayed a stunning new approach for dealing with the issue. Although the idea is disarmingly simple, it has been executed so tastefully that it has not only placed Yangling on the map but it has also increased the credibility of Chinese archaeology. The new concept is to leave the pieces in situ in their excavation pits and to enclose them within enormous glass cases whose temperature and humidity is constantly monitored and controlled.

Visitors to Yangling walk beneath ground level into an underground vault. They walk over the top of and next to glass-walled excavation pits in which sit the priceless treasures, one after the other. It is stunning. Meanwhile, behind the glass, the air humidity is maintained at over 90% and the air temperature between 18 – 20 degrees Centigrade (64-68 degrees Fahrenheit) exactly as it would be if the objects were still buried in earth.

This approach is still in its early stages. However, if it proves successful it will give a new lease of life to Chinese archaeology. I strongly encourage you to spread the news about Yangling.

As a post-script to this article, I want to share my excitement about Jinshan Museum, which is scheduled to open in Chengdu this October. This dig, dated between the third and first millennium BCE, is complementary to Sanxingdui (see July '05 broadcast). Whereas Sanxingdui has fantastic bronze and gold masks and trees, Jinshan Museum has a collection of contemporaneous jade and ivory pieces. If the Jinshan collection proves to be comparable to Sanxingdui, Imperial Tours will strongly promote Chengdu as a tourist destination.

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We hope you enjoyed this newsletter. As always, please do write back with any feedback that you would like us to incorporate. Alternatively, please call Margot Kong, our Director of Sales and Marketing, in San Francisco, at 888 888 1970. 

With Best Regards, 
Guy Rubin 
Managing Partner, Imperial Tours 

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By Guy Rubin

Apsara, or heavenly angel on Mogao Cave muralCenturies ago, in a cliff-face in the midst of China's vast Taklamakan desert, artists hollowed, sculpted and painted 492 caves, creating over 450,000 square feet of spectacular murals, or more than thirty times the mural area of the Sistine Chapel. But whereas the Sistine Chapel was painted over a few years, the works at the Mogao Caves began in the fourth century and were completed over the next millennium.

Given that over that thousand year period competing Imperial dynasties, local aristocracies and even foreign nations conquered the nearby city of Dunhuang, it would have been an astounding feat, perhaps even a miracle, for the painted caves to have survived the subsequent wars and mayhem. However, the Mogao caves – in spite of the unavoidable cultural differences between these different religions and peoples – did not just survive, they prospered through this period. For although rival dynasties, families, tribes, religions and nationalities dominated the area, the sheer magnificence of the Mogao Caves was so overwhelming as to prevail over any differences in its successive rulers. Rather than destroy all vestige of their predecessors, a new ruler would instead fund local artists to incorporate his image into the mythological chorus of the caves' hallowed murals. The ruler would thereby use the caves' beauty to legitimize his new administration. In this way, art served as a bridge linking different peoples to each other; the murals provided a space in which alien cultures could make compromises to each other and salve potential sources of enmity. They were used to finesse contradictions between rich and poor, between Confucianists and Buddhists and between Tibetans, Han and other ethnicities. As such, the murals of the Mogao Caves, bespeaking a universal harmony, herald the triumph of transcendent beauty over the destructive dynamic of temporal orders.

Han Dynasty Great WallCompare this example of cultural intercourse and compromise with another of Dunhuang's famous sites – the remnants of the earliest sections of the Great Wall. This 16 foot high wall of stamped earth, reinforced with wood, appears as spectacularly random in the midst of the world's second-largest desert. Over two thousand years old, this sinuous fortification, as weathered and cracked as the gargantuan rock formations it purports to divide, now seems more a product of nature than of humanity. Even though the power and scale of the seemingly infinite desert mock the Great Wall's pretensions to mastery, it is an achievement for this human endeavor to have been constructed and have survived for so long in such a hostile environment.

On the one hand, the Mogao Caves create a space for cultures to meet. On the other, the Great Wall was intended to keep cultures apart.

From its inception thousands of years ago, the Great Wall has been a touchstone for debate on how China should deal with her fierce neighbors. Opponents of the Great Wall claimed that peace could only be assured through economic, social and political engagement with China's borderland tribes. When this policy of engagement was preponderant, the borderlands were peaceful. However, at just these times, proponents of the Great Wall argued that Chinese prestige was suffering as a result of China's continual concessions to the warlike tribes, and thus the pendulum swung the other way.

Mogao Caves mural, depicting General Zhang  Qian who opened the Silk RoadLet us leave the ancient remnants of this Great Wall to travel along the local trade route that led Chinese culture to clash for its first time with a foreign civilization. The Silk Road brought great economic and military benefits to China. The westward export of goods from China fostered terrific fortunes: silks, teas and jade products as well as such brilliant inventions as paper, gunpowder and the compass reaped unimaginable financial rewards. The eastward import of goods most importantly introduced the legendary horses of Central Asia's Ferghana valley; their speed and stamina giving China the military edge in the region. However, the benefits of this trade came at a cost, namely commercial and ideological exchange with alien peoples, societies and cultural values. The homegrown religions of Daoism and Confucianism were threatened by the eastward spread of Buddhism. Han Chinese were forced to deal with the growing military threat of Tibet and the semi-nomadic tribes of the Western regions. Meanwhile the rapid economic and territorial growth of the Chinese Empire was drawing an ever increasing diversity and number of peoples' and thought systems into its sphere of influence. There was a clear danger that this crucible of heterogeneous admixtures would so overheat as to blow the Chinese Empire asunder!

So, how did governors of Dunhuang, the wealthiest and most significant of the borderland areas on the Silk Road, deal with the challenge of managing so much diversity? To understand the factors of their successful strategy, you should firstly put yourself in the saddle of a traveler of the time.

The first time you, yourself, journey to Dunhuang, the closest you will probably come to the vicissitudes of the desert, will be in the flickering shadow of your airplane as it fleets across the pitiless expanses. However, not far from Dunhuang, at the Dunes of the Singing Sands, you can mount a camel and recreate the experience of traveling along the Silk Road two thousand years ago. Even when you are lulled into reverie by your proud-nosed camel's lolling sway, you will still feel the heat of the sun parching your skin. In your imagination, you might see yourself within a large caravan of traders. There may even be a protecting contingent of soldiers accompanying your group. However, it is early morning and the hum of the tall, shifting sands fills you with foreboding. You open your eyes to see the dunes rise out of the air before you; instantly you are dwarfed by the immensity of the desert. One foul sand storm is all that is needed for you to lose your group, your family and your bearings. You recall the stark warning of Fa Xian, that famous monk of the fourth century, who writes from this spot, "the only signs of a road are the skeletons of the dead. Wherever they lie, there lies the road to India." Though you have heard tell of brigands along the way, you now feel all too keenly that your greatest threat lies not from other people, but from nature itself.

Mogao Cave Mural depciting thieves on the Silk RoadThe perennial threat of the desert hung over every oasis town, inhabitant and traveler. This constant reminder of life's transience and death's arbitrariness acted as a break on any dispute; it added a broader dimension to life along the Silk Road. Although this factor naturally calmed social unrest, Dunhuang's governors did not need to rely on it. At any given moment, they could enforce their will through a forceful military presence. The threat of their strong garrison was softened however by conciliatory cultural policies. It is the syncretic give and take of this cultural policy of engagement that is exhibited in the murals of the Mogao Caves.

In the shadowy caves (take a torch with you), there is no apparent contradiction between the thousands of Buddhas painted on the lower walls and the Daoist symbols painted on the ceiling. Nor is there one between the Confucianist veneration of ancestors on one wall and a representation of the historic Buddha running away from his family on another. Instead of analytically challenging components of each others' belief systems, the artists have assimilated all aspects of the faiths in a rich mythological tapestry. What appears irrational to one person will surely seem inspiring to another – both will agree that the representations are dazzlingly rich and beautiful.

Hegel observed that we learn from history that we do not learn from history. As we enter an age which the historian Samuel Huntingdon has characterized as being afflicted with the clash of competing civilizations, we do well to remember that civilizations have clashed many times before. They did so along the Silk Road approximately two thousand years ago, and the principle fruit of this encounter were hundreds of cave paintings of spell-binding harmony and beauty.

First published March 2003 in Culturaltravels.com under the title "A Study In Harmony".

A Review of "Genghis Khan" by James Chambers

Reviewed by Guy Rubin

"Seven hundred years ago a man almost conquered the earth. He made himself master of half the known world, and inspired mankind with a fear that lasted for generations. In the course of his life he was given many names – Mighty Manslayer, Scourge of God, Perfect Warrior. He is better known to us as Genghis Khan."

So begins Harold Lamb's 1928 "Genghis Khan" which, more than seventy years after its publication, remains the best-selling history on the Great Khan. James Chambers' new text is unlikely to unseat Lamb's for the top spot. Not that his "Genghis Khan" is anything but a lucidly written and intelligently organised work: It, like Leo De Hartog's new history ("Genghis Khan: Conqueror of the World", 1999, IB Tauris and Company), vies for a legitimate niche in the book market. For, with the exception of JJ Saunders' 1971 monograph, "The History of the Mongol Conquests", there is no concise account of the rise to world mastery of this nomadic shepherd. Most modern histories of the Mongol Horde are every page as exhaustive as the first Persian chronicles.

And yet one cannot help feeling that with this publication, the marketers have missed their mark. For readers are drawn to the history of Genghis Khan more by a spirit for romance than a dry thirst for fact – witness the enduring popularity of Harold Lamb's out of date but evocative text. Though academic probity inevitably harnessed Lamb's imaginative foray into twelfth century Mongolia, this well-respected British historian clearly sought to identify with Genghis Khan rather than judge him. Lamb's preference for empathy over analysis has maintained the popularity of his history. In so doing, he raised his work to the mythological stature of its demanding subject matter.

It is next to impossible for any short, popular history, whether by James Chambers or Leo De Hartog, to come to terms with the complexities of the tale of Temujin, Genghis Khan – Prince of all Conquerors. Without extensive background information, galloping the reader onto the hostile, Mongolian steppes, any biographical work – historical or fictive – is doomed to be as revealing about Genghis Khan as an arrow is of war. It will do no justice to this Nietzchean figure, who by force of personality united the internecine Mongolian tribes, transformed them into a disciplined fighting force, and built – step by step – the largest ever land-based empire, with a legacy lasting in Moghul India into the eighteenth century.

It is only in approaching the myth of Genghis Khan, that one may glimpse the wounded and sometimes savage human being beneath. Picture this for example: You are a child; your father has been murdered; your bereaved mother and brothers are scratching the barren steppes for food. And tomorrow? Your captors have scheduled it for your execution.

Few people have the misfortune to suffer such tribulations. Fewer still possess the character to defy them. It is a quality of Temujin's greatness that he not only overcame them, but that he learnt from them. It took such a man to raise a disorganised rabble to the heights of the Caesars. That man, understandably, has been mythologised; to some he is a God; to others, His curse.

Either way, you'll not risk meeting him in James Chamber's 128 page history. All you'll find here is a tidy introduction to the consensus history. And like most histories, it does not address the enigmas at the root of Temujin's life: Why, for example, did King Toghril first lend this indigent nomad a 20,000-strong army? Or what happened in the relationship between Jamuga and Temujin to turn them from blood brothers – and perhaps lovers – to mortal enemies?

"The Secret History of the Mongols" – the ultimate reference for such matters – offers elliptic and unconvincing explanations. Ironically, we must turn to fiction for a compelling, if unsubstantiated, alternative. "The Earth is the Lord's" Taylor Caldwell's 1940 novel, though emonizing its hero, makes a fascinating contribution to such imponderables. By tracing Temujin's journey from the terrible crucible of his childhood to his glorious unification of the Mongol tribes, Caldwell provides an intellectually refreshing and unsettlingly credible insight into the figures and issues at the center of this historical drama.

Thus, as readers, we are left with the embarrassing admission that the most popular history and historical novel on Genghis Khan, were both written more than fifty years ago. Though this bears no reflection on scholars of the calibre of Central Asianists like Morgan or Ratchnevsky, popularizing writers such as James Chambers should take note. By limiting their scope to one pre-defined by a marketing guru, they are unlikely to win readers' hearts – especially for so romantic a figure as Temujin, "Mighty Manslayer, Scourge of God, Perfect Warrior. better known to us as Genghis Khan."

June 2000, Chinanow.com

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